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Anonymous
Hi Nina! :) What do you think about jump rope for climbing? Do you think it helps? Thanks :D
Me

I think it is beneficial for warming up and for cardio but I have not used it for training specifically. I also trip after 2 minutes so that goes to show how much I jump rope…

sintaxsyntax
I have all the respect for your dedication and hard work and the guts to just get up and move to Colorado. It's paying dividends! Keep at it.
Me

Thank you!! It was a hard and scary decision but definitely worth the plunge.

Anonymous
how can i be as good as you in climbing ?
Me

Train well, try hard, stay psyched and keep smiling!

Anonymous
Nina, I've been having some killer wrist problems. Not quite an injury, but if I get into a mantle position, it hurts too much. I've been stretching and doing wrist curls, and it'll get better enough to put in another session, but it will hurt again right after. Any advice on how to handle this? Do you mind posting your recovery methods in detail pertaining to your wrist injury? How long did it take to recover?
Me

Pardon the late response, but I can say that my wrists are fully healed and I credit the following rehab methods for that: acupuncture, forearm massage, rice bucket, and rest.

My forearms had developed an imbalance in the top vs. bottom forearm muscles which caused tightness in the wrist. Acupuncture and massage helped loosen those tight spots and kept my wrists from locking up. Rice bucket exercises strengthened the tops of my forearms to compensate for the bottom muscle being too strong. Rest should go without saying; I took two weeks off completely from climbing, then slowly got back into it over the following 3 weeks to see how it felt.

Here’s some links to the rice bucket exercises I did:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhNDPD4gxpc&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZ3HeshC7ls

chipmonkcheeks
What is your rice bucket routine? And how often do you do it?
Me

I drew a lot of rice bucket inspiration (okay, all of it) from these two videos. The first one is good for general forearm strength gain, plus its hilarious:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhNDPD4gxpc&feature=youtu.be

And this one I found useful for rehab:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZ3HeshC7ls

Sorry for the late response, hope this helps!

Anonymous
Hi-angles or teams?
Me

The Teams used to be my go-to shoe, but now it’s the Hiangles. They are just so good for everything. Teams are still in my arsenal, just 2nd place :P

Anonymous
What rating could you climb when you began getting into competition climbing? How do I get into competition climbing?
Me

I can’t remember exactly what grade I climbed, but it was a year after I started climbing. I got last place in my first competition :P hehe

It’s easy to get into, just look for a schedule at your local climbing gym! Don’t have high expectations for your first few comps. See how you do first, and always have fun!

liontam
Hi! When are you going to Africa? Is the plan to go to Rocklands perhaps? Two of my girl buddies and I are going to Rocklands in July for a month. Would be cool if we're there at the same time! Anyway a question about training. What kind of exercises do you do for core stabilization? I'm always on the lookout for new exercises to mix up my program a bit. Also, do you prefer static or dynamic climbing? :)
Me

Hey hey! I’m so sorry I’m answering this now, maybe we saw each other in passing. This is how behind I am on my questions :P

I have started doing ring workouts, mainly to strengthen my shoulders and pecs but I’ve found it does wonders for core stabilization. Ring pushups and flys have felt really good (i.e. sore for days) and I can already feel results.

I generally prefer dynamic climbing. Had to learn that fast since I’m so short!

Anonymous
Hi Nina ! How many days & hours a week do you usually train? Massive fan of yours :) Grace
Me

Thanks Grace! I usually take 5 days of the week to do some type of climbing/training. Here’s a rough example of my week:

Monday: Campusing/Finger strength training/Core (2-3hrs)
Tuesday: Double day; campus in the morning (2hrs), gym climb in the evening (2-3hrs)
Wednesday: Strength training/Core (1-2hrs)
Thursday: Climbing/Core (2-3hrs)
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Climb (outside, preferably)
Sunday: Rest

Anonymous
What are you suggestions for a good ab/core workout? :)
Me

TRX bands! They are easy to make as well, just get some slings and rope. Most floor abs can be done on TRX and it makes it a lot more challenging. For a quick workout I do 2 min on, 1 min off (for instance, 2 min of planks, 1 min rest, 2 min of saws, 1 min rest, etc). 

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