Komilator (7C+), Switzerland
Photo: SparkShop aka Kyle Berkompas
«Well, I always know what I want. And when you know what you want - you go for it. Sometimes you go very fast, and sometimes only an inch a year. Perhaps you feel happier when you go fast. I don’t know. I’ve forgotten the difference long ago, because it really doesn’t matter, so long as you move.»
Andrei Taganov; We The Living by Ayn Rand (via ninawilliams)
I posted this awhile ago after reading Ayn Rand’s book and felt an odd sense of comfort after applying it towards climbing. Training, being injured, hitting plateaus, projecting, sending… It’s quite applicable. Just a reminder, for myself for and anyone who might need it :)
I just want to be as badass as you, honestly. Lol quick question though; how long have you been climbing?
Aw thanks ^_^ I’ve been climbing for 12 years this spring!
How does one go about getting sponsored in rock climbing? Especially without doing comps? Is that possible? haha. what are some of your experiences with gaining sponsors like?
There’s a lot of different factors that go into sponsoring a climber; it could depend on where you live or how many athletes the company already has. Ultimately though it comes down to you as a person. If you’re fairly active in the community, can hold a conversation, are personable and empathetic towards others then those are all good things! Being able to talk to people in a way that connects with them will bring you far in all aspects of life.
Climbing hard just gets your foot in the door. If you don’t do comps, climb hard outside! Or search for potential development and FA’s. You could do community work like trail-building and event-organization. Coach the local gym team. Just be different and stand out in a way that companies will notice :)
I feel like I bruise my fingertips every time I try to climb hard. Any advice?
Uh.. well, climbing isn’t the nicest on fingertips in the first place. You might need to build up some skin? Try climbing easier stuff at a higher volume to build a pain tolerance.
Or just suck it up :P
First impression of the Hiangles? They look sick!!!
They are great!! The stiffness adds a whole new level of support in the toe-box. it actually took some getting used to because I would weight a bad foot and expect it to pop but it stays on!
The heel-cup is a similar design to the Teams and Dragons but slightly wider, more ball-like. It wraps around my achilles really well.
Rubber is C4, very durable without losing its sticky magic. C4 performs particularly well on granite so I highly recommend them for that.
Overall they’re an awesome all-arounder. Not a true banana-shoe but definitely has enough down-turn for any angle.
hey nina, great job at PBR! You're looking strong! I have a question about basic training. Ive been bouldering for almost 7 months now and can boulder V5 at my local gym and have done up to V4 outdoors. Right now i think my finger is prone to injury so i've just been trying to give it some rest. I havent done much training but i've been climbing a lot. anyways..i feel like my tendons need a break and im looking to work out my upper body and back. Can you suggest a good mini work out routine?
Gymnastics rings are a great way to maintain pulling-power and particularly arm/back muscles without stressing tendons out. Definitely research some routines that fit your level :)
Hi Nina! I've realized I really need to work on lock off strength and I was wondering if you have any tips or workouts for in the gym or at home, and how often I should work on it? I've been trying to do more routes with lock offs to get better, but right now I feel like i'm just failing on the same move over and over again!
Hey Nina! I had a couple questions! Last year i competed in a few bouldering and sport competitions but over the summer took a break off from climbing and kind of fell off the grid of the sport for a while. I havent been training with team in forever and now just kind of do it on my own. Im not able to get passed V4s-V5s though. Im stuck on them and either never am able to get them, or the setters take them down too fast. Any advice for that? Or training for that at all? Thanks!
Motivation to train! Try some easy campus-board exercises and move onto harder ones when you feel ready. 4x4’s are good for power-endurance. Focus on technique; keeping your hips close to the wall, weighting your feet, trusting your arm-span (moves that seem big may not be so bad if you reach!) Frenchies are great for lock-offs and doing abs every other day will help a lot. Practice jumping to be more dynamic. Visualize yourself climbing the problem before you actually climb it to negate any potential beta-don’ts that you otherwise would have done on the wall.
Hope that helps :) Just stay psyched and climb with a good crew!