A sample from my training with Kris today! Seen here are long-reaches, bumps with pull-ups, and ladders on the small rungs. We also did pull-throughs on the board, light weights in the weight room, along with TRX and box-jumping. Fun fun fun :)
Doing my finger-strength homework from my Team of 2 online plan. So psyched on training right now!!
Let me start by saying that I pride myself by being sponsored by companies whose products actually work and that I can stand behind with full conviction. Adidas, Five Ten, Asana, Giddy, and Gnarly Nutrition are all fantastic sponsors with top-of-the-line product and who are also very nice people. However, I understand when folks tell me, “Well you’re just saying that cause they pay you.” This is not necessarily true, although it is part of my job description. I work with my sponsors because I believe in their product and they believe in me; a fair exchange I’d say.
That being said, here are two products I’ve been using the past few months for recovery that I am not sponsored by, I have not been asked to review, and I DO absolutely love!!
1. Strength Tape
I tried K-tape for my wrist injury and that shizz did not stick for more than 24 hours. I switched to some Strength Tape samples from the trade show and it stayed on with no lifting for 4 days!! It could have lasted longer but I had to take a shower at some point. They are also pre-cut into manageable lengths. Check out their website for cool videos on how to apply the tape for different injuries:
2. The R8 Massager from Roll Recovery
This thing is a godsend for my tight calves, IT bands, hamstrings, forearms, and biceps. Originally designed for runners, I’ve found it’s also really awesome for the arms. But seeing as climbers tend to have tight muscles overall the R8 delivers as a full-body massager anytime you want. At $119, it is a bit pricier than the ArmAid. However I’ve found myself using this more simply because it’s easier to grab off the couch, as opposed to strapping on the ArmAid. It also really helps with those calves/thighs/hamstrings for deep massage.
Check out their website here: http://www.rollrecovery.com/r8/
Hope that helps a little, if anyone was interested in some recovery gadgets!! :)
That link you posted looks really interesting. One piece of info I couldn't find is how long the training sessions typically last. I work 8-5 with 2 hours of total commute in my day, so working out for 4-5 hours a night just isn't an option. How long per day/session do you typically train with their programs?
It really depends on your schedule, and Kris would be able to work around it. I typically train with him for only 2 hrs twice a week in addition to regular climbing sessions and cross-training.
HEY CLIMBERS!! CHECK THIS OUT!
My trainer Kris Peters, 1/2 of the awesome Team of 2, is now offering personalized online training programs! Kris and his partner Justen Sjong will work with you to customize the best and most effective way to train over the course of a 5 or 10 week session.
Concerned about cost? Let me break it down for ya…
A 5-week session is $60; that amounts to $1.71/day for 35 days. Not too bad, right? The 10-week session is $125, which amounts to $1.78/day for 70 days. Definitely worth breaking the ol’ piggy bank or scrounging in your couch for some extra coin.
These guys know what they’re doing, and they’ve been working with professional climbers for a few years now. I made huge gains when I committed to a three-month consistent program back in 2012; now I’m back for more!! I highly recommend utilizing their website and making something work for you.
I get a lot of questions on how to train for climbing and as much as I would love to answer all of them fully, the truth is that I’m not a trainer. I have been trained, I can share my experiences, but in the end every person has different needs in order to improve their strength and technique.
If you’re interested in their products, specifically their online programs, check out their website:
And if you decide to commit, enter my name ‘nina williams’ (lowercase, w/ space) for a small discount! ^_^
Get psyched and please share!! Spread the motivation!
Feels good to be back home in the States! Although I will miss those cappuccinos. And the climbing, I guess ;) As much as I enjoyed Switzerland, it was frustrating to feel lacking in strength and fitness. I’m really looking forward to two solid months of training in Boulder before we leave for South Africa.
Side note about this picture: I sent it as a postcard to my Nen Nen (Chinese for grandmother) and she thought it was a coffee advertisement so she threw it away!! I’ll just have to send her another one :P
hello! hope your wrist is healing well. i have a question about heel hooking: every time i throw a big strong heel hook i get a foot cramp, ranging in pain from "annoying" to "rolling on the ground in agony." what are some things i can do to alleviate or prevent this? i drink 80+ oz of water a day, i sometimes eat bananas, and i don't often get foot cramps otherwise.
Hmm well bananas and water are my usual advice. The muscles in your feet may be really tight, it might be beneficial to get a massage? You could find a lacrosse ball and stand on it to loosen the bottoms of your feet.
It could also be the direction in which you’re pointing your foot combined with tight calf muscles; definitely try standing on a stair or foam rolling those puppies to see if it helps.
If you still have cramps, consider asking a physical therapist! Hope that helps :)
Hey Nina, what shoes are you wearing in Eastbound Takedown? I've never seen them before!
I’m wearing the Five Ten Hiangles; release date TBD!
I really really like them so far, I’ve been using them on virtually every climb here in Switzerland. Extremely versatile shoes.
The Eva Lopez hangboard program looks really good, unfortunately I find it tough to drop the $ to buy and then ship one of her hangboards stateside. How do you feel about the Chris Webb-Parsons routine he posted a couple years ago? Side Question: Is Lincoln Woods worth a week long trip? Or is it a better weekend destination? Thanks!
Yeah getting the hangboard was a bit of a hassle, however it’s fairly easy to make the different-sized rungs using wood and screwing them against a backboard. Just make sure they are the correct size.
I haven’t tried CWP’s routine however I am actually planning on it when I get back to the states! It has gotten a lot of good reviews and doesn’t need fancy equipment. As with any structured workout, it requires consistency and completion to the end in order for full results. Here’s a really useful link that outlines CWP’s program:
As for Lincoln Woods, it depends on where you’re coming from. There’s definitely enough for a week-long trip. Warm-up Cave and Loadie’s Zen boulder are fantastic. Pond Cave is another good section. There are other problems that are kind of spread-out but also really good; The Wave V3, Executioner V6, Last Call V7, Napoleon V8, and Barbed Wire V9 are kind of off on their own but definitely worth checking out.