Sport climbing is damn scary.
I feel a little weird saying this, because I actually used to lead quite a lot. Team nights consisted of pyramids, laps, and lots of endurance training in preparation for comps. I was a super-gym rat back in the day, and can shamelessly say I still am. Once I got around driving-age however, I started making weekend trips to Rumney, NH and spending hours whipping off the Waimea roof and Venus wall (not to mention Bonsai, Orange Crush, Monsters of the Id… the list goes on). The times spent at those amazing crags were some of my life’s best and lately I’ve had my mind on ropes for awhile.
^^ Me on Social Outcast, my very first 12b! This is some old-school stuff…
Added to the fact that I haven’t climbed serious sport in five or six years and that I’ve been looking for some different cross-training for my bouldering, why the hell not get on some ropes! I’ve had some successful trips so far and getting more psyched every day.
I’ve been enamored of a beautiful route in Clear Creek called Sonic Youth, a rare overhanging dihedral visible from the canyon road. I’d been wanting to try it for awhile now since I drove by it every time I went riding in the mountains, but I hadn’t really gotten back into sport until now. I’ve never sent 13a either so that alone was a little daunting. When I got on it yesterday for the first time I fell at every bolt, and it was super faaaaantasic :)
But seriously, it felt amazing. I was ungodly pumped but I figured out the beta pretty quickly, and I feel confident on it. The thing that trips me out now is still…the falling. I don’t quite have my “sport head” screwed on all the way, and its those moments before I fall that I start to freak out. When I’m so painfully pumped and I know I’m going to fall, when I start imagining the stupidest outcomes, when I think of my legs or wrists smashing into the wall. Its silly I know, and its just a matter of time and consistency before I get over it. I just don’t like the process.
^^ Beau on Sonic. Look at that corner!! Awesome!
I’ll be returning on Wednesday with Beau and Courtney, hopefully I won’t get so pumped this time. I remember the beta pretty well so I’ll have to move through it quickly. Yay ropes! Yay endurance! Its all coming back to me…
Another highlight of the day was my second-go send of Twitch, a 12d near Sonic and currently my hardest route to date! Woo! I’m hoping to make Sonic my official firstie 13 though. Victory beer!
The rest of the day I just took random portraits of our group not climbing, but merely posing with a rope. Its all lies, we don’t sport climb, we just went up there for the pictures :P
Faces after the break!